Polysorbates are one of those ingredients that most people in skincare never really talk about, but they matter quite a lot. They sit behind the scenes, keeping your creams smooth and preventing your serums from separating. If you work in formulation or run a beauty brand, understanding how they actually work becomes important for building products that stay stable and perform well.
The cosmetics industry is evolving, with consumers increasingly interested in the origin and composition of the ingredients used. Polysorbates fit perfectly into this conversation, as they must deliver reliable performance while meeting the growing expectations for cleaner and more sustainable skincare. Being aware of their origin, safety, and behavior in formulations helps brands connect with ingredient-conscious consumers.
Understanding Polysorbates
Polysorbates are widely used emulsifiers in skincare formulations, yet their individual roles are often misunderstood. For example, Polysorbate 80 is an emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid that helps oil and water blend smoothly. Polysorbates such as 20, 60, and 80 differ slightly in composition and performance, and choosing the right one can significantly influence product texture and stability.
In skincare, Polysorbate 80 is typically used in serums and light creams that require a gentle emulsifier. Polysorbate 20, however, functions differently—it is lightweight and particularly suitable for sensitive formulations. Polysorbate 80 is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1–10%, depending on the product type and formulation requirements.
Overview of Other Eco-Friendly Emulsifiers
While polysorbates are widely used in formulations, there are other sustainable emulsifiers gaining popularity in clean beauty. Glyceryl Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol are two alternatives that are derived from renewable plant sources and are biodegradable, making them great choices for eco-conscious formulations. Glyceryl Stearate, for example, helps stabilize emulsions and is a gentler, plant-based option for emulsification. Cetearyl Alcohol is another plant-derived emulsifier that’s both moisturizing and stabilizing, often used in formulations aimed at delivering a richer feel.
These alternatives are gaining traction because they offer natural and biodegradable properties, which are highly valued by consumers seeking more environmentally responsible products. They can also perform comparably to polysorbates in terms of stability and texture, though each emulsifier has its unique characteristics.
Comparing Sustainable Polysorbates to Other Emulsifiers
When comparing sustainable Polysorbates with other emulsifiers like Glyceryl Stearate or Cetearyl Alcohol, there are several factors to consider. Polysorbates are excellent at forming stable, smooth emulsions with a light, non-greasy feel, making them ideal for serums and fluid formulations. However, alternative emulsifiers like Glyceryl Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol provide more moisturizing properties and are commonly used in thicker creams and lotions.
From a sustainability perspective, both polysorbates and these alternatives can be sourced responsibly, but Polysorbate 80 and other polysorbates often come under scrutiny due to the nature of their sourcing (e.g., petroleum vs. plant-based options). However, sustainable polysorbates are increasingly available, which means formulators can choose options that align with their eco-conscious values while not sacrificing product performance.
The Safety Conversation
The other general question that formulators and brands usually ask is: Are polysorbates safe? Is polysorbate 80 safe? Is polysorbate 20 safe for skin? Yes, they are both accepted by regulating authorities. These ingredients, approved by the FDA and European Commission, are to be used in cosmetic products.
That said, safety and sustainability are two different things. Just because something is safe does not mean your supply chain is clean. Transparency in sourcing and production practices varies among polysorbate suppliers, underscoring the need for brands to verify sustainability claims. There is a real difference in how these ingredients are produced.
Choosing the Right Sustainable Emulsifier for Your Product
When deciding which emulsifier to use, it’s essential to match the right sustainable emulsifier to your product’s needs. For lightweight formulations like serums or micellar waters, sustainable Polysorbate 20 may be ideal due to its gentle nature and skin-friendly properties. On the other hand, for richer creams or lotions, you might choose an alternative like Glyceryl Stearate or Cetearyl Alcohol, both of which offer excellent emulsification and additional moisturizing benefits.
Ultimately, the choice depends on the texture and functionality required for your product, as well as your commitment to sustainability. If you’re formulating for a more eco-conscious consumer base, highlighting these sustainable choices and sourcing practices will resonate deeply with your target audience.
Testing and Implementation
Formulators have observed that sustainable versions of polysorbates perform better compared to traditional ones, with only minor formulation adjustments such as viscosity or mixing ratios.
Polysorbate 20 performed equally well in sustainable versions compared to the traditional alone. Its consistency and shelf life were the same, and the customers could not distinguish the difference. There is also value among consumers for brands that are transparent and sustainable in their sourcing of ingredients.
Making the Actual Decision
If you are making purchasing decisions for a beauty brand, reach out to your polysorbate suppliers directly. Ask them specifically where they source their raw materials. Request actual documentation that backs up what they tell you. Some suppliers will provide this information openly, and others will give vague answers.
The ones who share clear details are usually the more reliable choice. Sustainable versions of polysorbates do cost more than the standard options. Your customers will pay for this difference if you explain what they are getting.
Conclusion
Polysorbates are more than just emulsifiers—they represent the shift in skincare standards and evolving consumer expectations. By sourcing sustainable ingredients and partnering with transparent suppliers, your brand communicates integrity and responsibility. The good news is that you don’t need to compromise product performance to make this shift. Modern sustainable polysorbates work just as well as conventional ones.
Choosing sustainable polysorbates not only supports environmental responsibility but also signals your brand’s forward-thinking values. You end up with products that work effectively on skin while also reflecting what your customers increasingly want from beauty.
